Lightly grease the steerer tube.

Install a crown race compatible with your bike's headset according to the headset manufacturer's instructions.

Insert fork in frame with crown race and headset in place.

Slide chosen headset spacers and stem onto steerer.

Mark steerer tube and cut steerer using fine-tooth, metal hacksaw blade and saw guide.

MEASURE TWICE, CUT ONCE!

Use a star nut setting tool to drive star nut into steerer to a depth of roughly 15mm.

Slide fork into frame with headset in place.

Install headset top cap, spacers, and stem onto steerer tube.

Preload headset to 3Nm using preload bolt and tighten stem bolts to manufacturer-recommended spec.


WARNING: Do not install more than 30mm of spacers below the stem. It is also ideal to have the steerer extend several mm past the top of the stem and use one 5mm or 10mm spacer on top of stem to ensure proper stem clamping force.

Invert Enduro's post mount is native to 200mm rotors; rotors larger than 200mm require the appropriate adapter.


Install brake caliper according to the brake manufacturer's instructions.

Attach the front brake hose to the SideSwipe guard using zip ties. Be sure the zip ties are seated in their notches and the hose is held firmly against the inside edge of the hose keeper tab.

If necessary, adjust the caliper banjo bolt so the hose makes a clean arc and does not contact the rotor, fork leg, guard, or other parts.

Pop brake hose guides over brake hose and position them within the yellow dotted lines on the Cane Creek decal.

Loosely zip-tie the guides so they stay in place but can still be adjusted and rotated to keep the hose on a smooth, consistent path clear of the rotor, tires, and other parts.

Leave the guides loose until the front wheel is installed, then compress the fork to check the hose path through full travel. Once satisfied, tighten the zip ties fully to prevent slipping.

While not critical, we highly recommend turning the bike upside down for easiest axle removal & install. Make sure that cockpit controls, levers, buttons, accessories are not contacting the ground in such a way that would damage them.

Loosen all pinch bolts thoroughly, so that there is a visible gap between bolt heads and dropout flange. 

Remove the axle by turning the axle fixing bolt counterclockwise with a 6mm hex. This is a captured bolt that is meant to be held within the dropout. The self-extracting design will push the axle out the other side of the fork. While unthreading this bolt, hold pressure with one hand on the air side to prevent the legs from spreading apart. If axle binds, you can gently push on axle bolt to help push axle out. 

Make sure the 15mm axle adapter stays in the brake side dropout. The slot in the axle adapter should line up with the slot in the dropout.

Watch the video

Lightly grease the ends of the axle and make sure dropouts are wiped clean.

Install the wheel into the dropouts and insert axle. Make sure 3mm hex tool lines up with notch in air side dropout. Due to SquareLoc axle design, the axle may find considerable resistance when being inserted. Gently rock fork dropouts back and forth to be sure fork legs are perfectly aligned. 

Begin to tighten axle fixing bolt, making sure there is smooth engagement of the threads. If you feel resistance - STOP - realign legs and start again so as to not damage threads.

FOLLOW THIS SEQUENCE EXACTLY to ensure proper leg alignment and performance:

1: Torque the axle to 13.5Nm

2: Torque the two brake side pinch bolts to 4Nm, alternating between bolts every several turns to keep even torque on both.

3: Compress the fork sharply several times to ensure the air side leg is aligned. The air side dropout is not meant to contact the hub endcap. Look for 1-2mm of axle exposed inside of the air side dropout. This indicates proper alignment.

4: Torque the two air side pinch bolts to 4Nm, alternating between bolts every several turns to keep even torque on both.

Watch the video.

While not critical, we highly recommend turning the bike upside down for easiest axle removal & install. Make sure that cockpit controls, levers, buttons, accessories are not contacting the ground in such a way that would damage them.

Remove the 15mm axle using instructions from step 7a.

Remove the 15mm axle adapter from the brake side dropout.

Lightly grease the ends of 20mm axle and make sure dropouts are wiped clean.

Install the wheel into the dropouts and insert axle. Due to SquareLoc design, the axle may find considerable resistance when being inserted. Gently rock fork dropouts back and forth to be sure fork legs are perfectly aligned.

Begin to tighten axle fixing bolt, making sure there is smooth engagement of the threads. If you feel resistance - STOP - realign legs and start again so as to not damage threads.

FOLLOW THIS SEQUENCE EXACTLY to ensure proper leg alignment and performance:

1: Torque the axle to 13.5Nm

2: Torque the two brake side pinch bolts to 4Nm, alternating between bolts every several turns to keep even torque on both.

3: Compress the fork sharply several times to ensure the air side leg is aligned. The air side dropout is not meant to contact the hub endcap. Look for 1-2mm of axle exposed inside of the air side dropout. This indicates proper alignment.

4: Torque the two air side pinch bolts to 4Nm, alternating between bolts every several turns to keep even torque on both.

Watch the video

Fully remove the bleed screws on top of both fork legs to release any trapped air pressure. Reinstall and tighten to 1-2Nm.

Remove the air cap on the bottom of the air side leg.

Set initial pressure to 45% of your body weight in lbs (PSI), including riding gear.

Compress the fork slightly five times to equalize the air spring. Do this again with every pressure adjustment.

Dressed in full riding gear, mount bicycle on flat ground. Bounce the fork to ensure it moves freely. Come to a rest in a standing ride position with elbows bent. Have a partner slide sag o-ring up to contact the wiper seal at your sag position.

Dismount the bicycle carefully so as not to move the o-ring from its position.

Visually check position of o-ring relative to sag notches. Each notch represents 25% sag for each travel.

Add or remove air pressure in 5 PSI increments to dial in sag amount. If more sag is needed, remove air. If less, add air. Be sure to cycle the fork several times each time you adjust the pressure.

Remove all air pressure from the fork.

Using a 13mm socket, remove the air valve assembly.

Unthread the black air volume piston wingnut.

Slide gold volume piston up 1 notch on the shaft, away from air cap. Make volume adjustments in single notch increments, then ride and reevaluate if more is needed. One position of air volume adjustment makes a notable difference in bottom out resistance.

Retighten black wingnut to secure piston.

Confirm that the system is clean and lightly greased, including the threads and o-rings. Reinstall air valve assembly, torque to 36Nm, and follow step 8 to re-set sag.

Rebound controls the speed at which the fork can extend after being compressed. In adjusting rebound, you’ll be looking for a balance between traction and liveliness (faster rebound) vs. a sense of composure and control (slower rebound).

Tune rebound first, before moving on to compression.

To adjust, turn adjuster on the top of the brake side leg labeled 'Rebound.'

Turn clockwise to increase damping. (slower fork return speed)

Turn counterclockwise to decrease damping. (faster fork return speed)

See graphic above for Rebound adjustment characteristics.

Compression damping controls how easily the fork compresses under impacts and rider inputs. It controls how supportive and firm the suspension feels. Tune it after you've arrived at a satisfactory rebound tune.

Start with both adjusters set to the middle of their range. This is your 'neutral' setting and represents a balance of all desirable traits for most riders. If you're not sure what you prefer, this balanced mid-tune is a perfect place to return to.

LSC - Low-Speed Compression

• Controls how fast/easily the fork compresses during pedaling, pumping, and pushing the bike through turns and compressions. This controls the overall sense of firmness and is used to help dial in a supportive platform for the rider to lean on/push against.
  
  To adjust, use the 3mm hex hidden in the end of the axle. Turn clockwise to increase damping (more platform), turn counterclockwise to decrease damping (less platform). 

HSC - High-Speed Compression

Controls how fast/easily the fork compresses from severe & abrupt impacts (tall roots, square-edged rocks, braking bumps). In adjusting HSC, you will try to determine if the front wheel is moving freely enough over these features or if you need more support to push through them.

To adjust, turn the large, gold HSC adjuster by hand. Turn clockwise to increase damping (more impact support), turn counterclockwise to decrease damping (more plushness).