The Ultimate Guide To Identifying And Choosing a Bicycle Headset

WHAT IS A HEADSET?

A bicycle headset is the assembly of bearings and associated parts that act as the connecting point between the bicycle’s frame and fork. The headset allows the fork to turn smoothly while remaining tight in the headtube and allows you to precisely steer and control your bicycle.

While it is often overlooked and neglected, an upgrade here can dramatically increase the reliability and peace of mind that comes with a quiet, tight, and smooth-riding bicycle.

A Brief History

From threaded to threadless...

Prior to the early 1990s, all headsets on bicycles used the traditional threaded design (shown here). It had been the status quo for many decades, but it was rife with problems.

In 1992 Cane Creek (then named Dia Compe USA) patented and introduced the first threadless headset. It replaced the cumbersome threaded design and has easily become one of the most impactful bicycle patents of all time - influencing frame, fork, cockpit component, and other headset manufacturers alike.

For nearly two decades, threadless headset technology was licensed by Cane Creek to all other headset manufacturers until the patent ran out in 2010.

Threadless headsets based off of the original Cane Creek patent are still found today on every single high-quality, performance bicycle in the world.

What Headset Fits My Bike?

First you need to understand the Headset Code...

Though they are fairly simple components, bicycle headsets can be difficult to understand and purchase. Unfortunately, there are a vast array of different configurations and sizes, and it can feel quite overwhelming when looking at all the possibilities at once! In 2010, Cane Creek introduced the Standardized Headset Identification System (SHIS) - a pioneering effort to establish a unified classification system by which we describe all modern headsets.  

The codified name that we give to a particular headset is a series of letters and numbers that describe its relevant dimensions, as well as how it fits into the bike frame. We call this name the “Headset Code." In the past, you may have seen this name referred to as the “SHIS” distinction.   

To make understanding headsets even more straightforward, we’ve built a new guide that simplifies the process of identifying the correct headset even more. We encourage you to follow these steps, exactly as they are laid out in the guide. 

If followed sequentially, we’re confident that you will not only finish with the knowledge you need to make a confident purchase, but you will have learned much more about how your headset goes together. You will be a more informed (and confident) bicycle mechanic because of it! 

Tools For The Job

Your Bike

Complete with frame and fork

Digital Measuring Calipers

Precise measurements matter. The difference between some headsets comes down to tenths of a millimeter!

Headset Cup Removal Tool & Hammer

Park Tool RT-2 or equivalent.

Only needed if trying to measure a head tube with a press-fit type headset currently installed. This tool is used to drive the bearing cups out of the head tube so that the inner diameter can be accurately measured.

See Step 1 below.

Your Eyes and Thinking Cap

You can do this.

Step by Step: Crack Your Headset Code

Pro Tip:

Some bicycle manufacturers publish the Headset Code for their frames in the technical specification or ‘frame specs’ sections on their respective webpages. Before disassembling your bike, you can begin by trying to locate this information. Unfortunately, many manufacturers do not list this information publicly. If this is the case for your bike, you MUST remove the stem and fork from the bike and follow the steps of this guide to find your Headset Code.  

Step 1 - Determine Headset Type

The 3 Headset Types

In Step 1, all you have to do is visually examine your headset (on both top & bottom of the head tube). You'll most likely need to remove the stem and fork to do this. You'll need to see exacly how the headset bearings interact with the frame.

ZS : 'Zero Stack' Cup

In a ZS type headset, the headset bearing sits in an aluminum cup that is pressed into the head tube. There will only be a small flange of the cup visible above/below the head tube, and the bearing sits inside the head tube while contained in this cup.

EC : 'External Cup'

In an EC type headset, the headset bearing also sits in an aluminum cup that is pressed into the head tube. However, where the bearing sits relative to the head tube is different. In this case, the cup that houses the bearing is fully visible outside of the frame and the bearing sits outside the head tube while contained in this cup.

IS : 'Integrated Style'

In an IS type headset, there is no cup pressed into the head tube to hold the bearing. Instead, the bearing sits directly in the head tube itself on chamfered 'seats' that are molded or machined directly into the head tube. The bearing sits down inside the head tube, similar to the ZS location. Integrated style bearings do not need to be pressed in or out - they are simply fitted into the head tube by hand.

Take Note:

Mix and Match


You'll need to observe which headset type is used on the top vs. the bottom of your head tube.

In some cases, they will be the same style (for example, IS | IS) which is commonly seen on carbon road and gravel frames like the blue Specialized Aethos to the right.

It's also quite common to see headset types mixed.

ZS|EC is a common combination on modern steel and Ti frames, as shown by the titanium Litespeed.

Slide the yellow toggle back and forth to see examples of both.

IS|IS

ZS|EC

Drag

Step 2 - Determine Head Tube Size

Next, you'll need to determine the inner diameter of the headtube, top & bottom. Make sure all bearings and cups are removed before measuring the inside diameter in millimeters.

Head tube diameters are rounded to whole numbers, with the most common top/bottom pairings shown in the graphic above.

With an integrated headtube, be sure you are measuring the very edge of the head tube opening. Because the bearing seats are angled, if you measure with your calipers inserted too deep, you will get incorrect measurements.

Step 3 - Determine Steerer Tube Size

The steerer tube measurements determine the inner dimensions of the headset and control the crown race sizing. Confusingly enough, we measure the top portion of the steerer tube precisely, to the 1/10th of a mm and the bottom is rounded up to the whole mm. Most modern fork steerers are 28.6mm (also referred to as 1 1/8th inch) at the top and one of three possible options at the bottom.

The bottom measurement is the crown race seat diameter and refers to the size of crown race that will come with your particular Headset Code.

Step 4 - Connect The Dots...

It's finally time to connect the dots from the previous three steps! Taking the color-coded information that you found in steps 1-3, combine the aspects to spell out your Headset Code.

When purchasing a complete Cane Creek headset, you’ll receive all the necessary parts for installation with your frame and fork. This includes top cap and preload bolt, top cover, bearings, cups (if applicable), and crown race.

Headsets do not include stem spacers.

Step 5 - Choose Your Model

Cane Creek’s headsets are arranged along a quality spectrum in three basic groups. You can think of this as a simple “Good, Better, Best” breakdown.

Forty and Fifty are what we call “Good” headsets. They are the most economical choices in our lineup but are still nicer than most stock headsets.

Hellbender 70 is our “Better” option – offering a significant upgrade in durability thanks to its stainless steel bearings and more robust sealing.

Lastly, the 110 headsets represent the “Best” that we know how to make. These are our most premium headsets and come with a 100% Lifetime Guarantee for the rider that wants ultimate peace of mind.