Prepare the bicycle headtube for headset installation by making sure all necessary surfaces are faced and chased and by removing any dirt or debris from the headtube. 

If installing an EC44 headset, apply a small amount of grease to the headset cups as well as the inside of the headtube.

Make sure the lasered Cane Creek logos read right-way-up on both top and bottom cups. DO NOT install cups such that logos are upside down! The headset will not function properly if you do so.

Press the cups into the bicycle’s headtube using a headset press.

Be sure not to press directly on the bearings of the headset while pressing the cups into the frame. Cane Creek recommends removing the bearings from the cups and using headset cup installation tools for installation.

Grease the base of fork steerer and install the headset crown race onto the fork by firmly pressing it into place by hand.

HCR uses a split crown race that does not need to be hammered on.

Note: Most carbon fiber forks use an integrated crown race, molded into the base of the steerer. If this applies, do not install race - simply apply grease.

For EC44 headsets, apply a small amount of grease to the inside of the headset cups.

For IS52 headsets, apply a small amount of grease to the inside of the headtube, on bearing seats.

Slide lower headset bearing onto steerer tube. Lightly grease outside of bearing.

Slide fork into frame, grease upper bearing, and slide upper bearing onto steerer.

Install the fork into the headtube and slide the compression ring and top cover assembly over the steerer tube.

Add any spacers required, followed by the stem. There should be no more than 40mm of spacers below the stem for steerer tube safety.

For HCR stems, use the slotted spacers included with your stem. The conversion spacer included with the headset is NOT required.

For all other stems (non-HCR), use the conversion spacer to transition to standard, round headset spacers.

Steerer tubes should extend completely through the stem for proper clamping pressure and safety.

Mark the steerer tube for cutting using a sharp pick or paint marker and remove the fork.

For carbon steerer tubes, tape the steerer tube at the cut line to prevent carbon fibers from peeling/splintering. Place steerer tube cutting guide in a vice and line up cut mark with guide and saw blade.

Cut aluminum steerer tube with fine tooth, 32tpi blade or higher hacksaw.

If cutting carbon, use a carbon fiber specific blade to prevent peeling and splintering of the carbon weave.

Once cut, remove tape and sand inner and outer edge of cut fork steerer lightly with Scotchbrite pad or fine grit sandpaper.

Determine the cable routing configuration for your bicycle. The HCR headset and stem are optimized for wireless drivetrain routing. If your bicycle uses mechanical shifting, we recommend using the round HCR conversion spacer together with a standard stem and spacers for optimal shifting performance.

Remove the required plugs from the cable seal by using a small hex wrench or dull punch. The outer holes are for 5mm brake hose and the inner holes are for 4mm shift housing. 

Run the required hoses or housing through the frame and fork then through the upper headset cup/bearing in the headtube. It is often easier to feed the brake hose from the rear of the frame to the front.

Make sure there is plenty of hose or housing to not impede the steering, braking and shifting of the bicycle.

IT'S HIGHLY RECOMMENDED TO USE PROTECTIVE TAPE ON THE STEERER TUBE AND TO TAPE THE FRONT BRAKE HOSE TO THE STEERER AS WELL TO REDUCE CHANCES OF WEAR.

Run the hoses or housing through the cable seal in the headset top cover making sure to use the correct holes. The outer holes are 5mm for brake hose, while the inner holes are 4mm for mechanical shift housing.

While holding all the hoses or housing, slide the top cover down onto the steerer tube.

To avoid having the steerer tube o-ring seal come dislodged (bottom left), it may help to spray the cable seal, hoses, and steerer tube with glass cleaner or isopropyl alcohol to ease the installation.

Using a spacer as a tool to drive the top cover assembly can help keep the cable seal from dislodging as you push the top cover down into place.

With the top cover assembly installed, slide the chosen spacers and stem back onto steerer tube. 

Hook the brake hoses into the front hooks of the spacers and slide the spacers back onto the steerer tube making sure the spacers align to the key in the back of the top cover.

Install a normal 5mm spacer above the stem and install the top cap and preload bolt. Tighten the preload bolt to 3Nm.

Install the compression plug or starnut per fork manufacturer’s recommendations.

If using Cane Creek Ancora, use 6mm hex to torque to 6Nm.

NOTE: When tightened, expansion plugs can cause some carbon steerer tubes to dilate slightly. This can make fitting the HCR top cover with additional cable seal more difficult. We recommend installing the expansion plug AFTER the HCR headset top cover is in place.

With the handlebar in place, re-install the stem faceplate starting with the upper bolts.

Install the Cable Guide between the stem body and bottom of stem faceplate to capture the hoses.

The Cable Guide is recommended for all handlebars except for those with central, internal exit in order to keep hoses securely within the under-stem channel. THE CABLE GUIDE IS NOT REQUIRED IF HOSES EXIT THE REAR OF THE HANDLEBAR, INSIDE STEM .

First, tighten the lower faceplate bolts to 5Nm, then tighten the top faceplate bolts to 5Nm. Be sure to read and follow any handlebar manufacturer’s instructions for install.

Note: It may be helpful to use a cable management clip similar to Jagwire’s Rotating Hook to secure hose in stem channel if they are wanting to pop out of place. (bottom right)

Route the hoses or housing to the shifters and brakes and secure per the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Center the stem over the front wheel and torque steerer tube clamp bolts to 5Nm.